It´s been raining like crazy, maybe 2 inches per day. Haven´t seen the sun for a week, but have enjoyed hearing the rain on the roof at night. I hiked up to a lake in the rios region, a reserve called Huilo Huilo, but was told I couldn´t enter the reserve because they require a guide and will only allow 2 people minimum to obtain a guide. I took many photos of the cafe and building with shop and displays of the reserve and animals that live there. Someone has made small fairies with felt and branches, very cute. There was a lovely waterfall on the river, which I visited. I decided to hike towards Puerto Fuy, a small town at one end of a lake that spans 2 countries, Chile and Argentina. On the other shore is San Martin de los Andes, apparently a lovely European town with a Swiss influence. Americans like this town, as they like Bariloche. Not sure I´ll make it. We have been staying with a couchsurfing host in Valdivia, and I have been roaming every day to the coast and gone on several trips. I did see the sun briefly on an hour boat trip in the river nearby, we saw many native forests as well as a lot of eucalyptus that they turn into wood chips for heating and paper pulp. There´s a lot of logging here, at least of non native trees. I went to a lovely museum today at the fort in Niebla where they explained the history of this area. A nice curator who was studying English asked me to translate some of the signs. It was nice to know that I understand more Spanish than I think. Now I´m having a hard time remembering English, so please forgive my grammar. I noticed a reponse that I was demeaning in my description of Santiago. Perhaps, but I suggest that the person who thought this go and see for themselves. It was a culture shock, more than anything, and I probably would have felt similarly anywhere in South America.