July 11, 2018. Shawn had joined me in Riga the day before. With the end of the National Latvian Song Festival, I was spent, but happy to see Shawn. We walked around Riga until 4:30 p.m., stopping for a latte at Café La Strada, recommended by Madara. We visited the War Museum and the Museum of Occupation, setting a 30-minute time limit for the war museum. Shawn appreciated both museums, even though the subject matter was heavy. We saw the Berlin bears — impressive and beautifully designed. After a gelato, we drove to Sigulda and tried to visit Turaida Castle, but it was closed. I wanted to walk in the valley park, but Shawn was tired, so we went downtown and had an amazing meal at Hotel Sigulda. Later, we watched the EuroCup semifinals at a cozy outdoor bar and chatted with an Englishman who was disappointed about England’s loss. We stayed at a cabin hotel where the other guests were loud, and we barely slept.

July 12. We returned to Turaida Castle and spent the day exploring. I really enjoyed the exhibit on the Livs. We walked through the park, visiting both caves and heading toward the other castle. All three castles were within 1.5 km of each other, making for a pleasant forest walk. Shawn liked it. We saw castle ruins and an older manor house, then returned to Hotel Sigulda for dinner, where I had excellent trout again. As we ate, a downpour and hailstorm hit, but we were sheltered under the awning. We booked a room at the hotel online — it was cheaper — but unfortunately it was loud again. We stayed in a small attic room with a skylight.

July 13. I swam in the morning in a very nice pool and indulged at the breakfast buffet. We visited Sigulda Castle, though there wasn’t much to see. On the way to Cēsis, we stopped in Āraiši to climb a windmill and see an Iron Age lake fortress. I loved the floating wooden platform surrounded by a fence and connected by a walkway. The windmill, which the current owner’s grandfather had bought from the original owner, was a highlight. In Cēsis, we toured the castle, including a candlelight walk through the ruins and a cozy reading room in the new castle. The Stalin statue in the bin was no longer there. On a recommendation, we ate at a nearby restaurant with cheap and tasty food. Later, we visited a café where a drummer was scheduled to play at 10 p.m., but it was too late to stay. We found a charming old house where the owner welcomed us and let us sit in the backyard. We played Mastermind as it got dark and snacked on gooseberries and currants in four colors.

July 14. We started the day at a nice Saturday market downtown. I bought berries, quiche, and two Pavlovas — the chewy egg white and cream dessert was so good I had to have another. Then we headed to Saaremaa, stopping briefly in Pärnu, a lovely old spa town. A heavy rainstorm hit and the streets flooded to about three feet deep; I nearly flooded the car. We made it to the ferry and caught the next boat to Muhu Island. We attempted to visit Pädaste Manor, but a private event was in progress, so we rushed to Villa Inga. The buffet dinner was fine, but the room was too hot. Shawn napped while I walked around and found the remnants of a large bonfire. The bed was comfortable, though.

July 15. Since the Sunday ferry was full, we stayed another night on the island. We drove along the coast, though the view was blocked. At Kuressaare, the old town and castle weren’t as impressive as I remembered. We went to Koguva Village, which had a charming old farm school, costume and textile exhibits, and a writer’s house. Pädaste Manor wasn’t as lovely as I recalled — the stage was being dismantled. At the ferry terminal, there was a long line, so we asked at a nearby horse farm about accommodation. They eventually offered us a place near Maasi Castle. That evening, we returned to town to watch the EuroCup final at a food bar, where a sparkly festivalgoer joined us. Around 4,000 people had come for the weekend. Later, we enjoyed a sauna and chatted with Allar’s father, who now works in Stockholm and had supported his son’s choice to study computers. Thanks to the screened window and the quiet, we slept really well.

July 16. In the morning, we spoke with Allar and admired the garden — a huge oak tree, lovely plants, and a greenhouse his mother tended. We explored the nearby castle ruins and had lunch at a bar, though they forgot Shawn’s cappuccino. At a bakery, we picked up some dark Latvian-Estonian bread before heading to the ferry. We were placed in a bad line, and people who arrived 15 minutes later boarded before us. I changed lanes and nearly missed the next boat, but explained my reasons to the attendant, who let us board. We drove to Haapsalu and immediately fell in love with the town. We climbed the birdwatching tower, watched the wind ripple through the grasses, and walked along the promenade. Shawn found it romantic. We returned to swim at a sandy beach, then checked into a cheap and funky Airbnb studio. The host sold us a beautiful 30-euro cutting board. His wife even washed our clothes. We had dinner at Dietrichs — excellent food, great service, and I couldn’t resist buying a piece of pistachio cake. We ended the night with another long walk.

July 17. We returned to Dietrichs for breakfast, which was just as good. Then we drove to Tallinn, unsuccessfully searching for a car wash. Our Airbnb was on the top floor of a house — very nice, though we didn’t get much time to enjoy it. In the old town, we explored many historic spots, including St. Catherine’s Church and convent, which we didn’t find until later. I called and managed to change our ferry reservation to an earlier time the next morning. We had dinner at Ribi, an upscale six-course meal with foie gras, and although I wasn’t very hungry, it was only 44 euros — a bargain. Shawn had wine with each course. After dinner, we walked more and then headed home.

July 18. We left by 10 a.m. and visited what was supposed to be the best coffee place in town — not impressive. I bought cherry and cinnamon chocolate from Kielers, who also owned the café. Then we went to the marzipan museum and confectioner’s shop — beautifully preserved with old wallpaper and elegant displays. The museum of Estonia had great exhibits, including an interactive section on firearms that Shawn enjoyed, a Cabinet of Curiosities with oddities like a crocodile, and information about guild halls and an old brewery. We didn’t have time for a second museum visit. After waiting an hour for the ferry, we were the last to board and last to exit. The ferry ride was windy and uncomfortable, filled with drinking, smoking, gambling, and shopping — very dull. Finally, we arrived in Helsinki, walked along the shore near a park I’d been told about, and really enjoyed it. We met Villi and Francesca at our lodging, which was a tiny wooden shed with bunk beds. It was late, and we slept.

July 19. We had breakfast at a kiosk in Långvik and made friends with the owners. Thursday is traditional pea soup day in Finland, so we had that with strawberry pie — delicious. We drove the scenic route, and I attempted to walk to the sea at Harsala, but was stopped by a fence and a property owner watching me. At the end of the road, I tried again but was turned away by a woman and her dog. Later, we celebrated Villi’s birthday. Francesca made an amazing strawberry cheesecake and served cappuccinos. I was in heaven. We hung out until 4 p.m. and then drove to Helsinki. We walked around, visited the Sinebrychoff House — beautifully furnished, once home to Finland’s main brewer — and explored the Esplanade and hipster district. Trendy restaurants were everywhere but out of our budget. Locals suggested Kannas Restaurant, where I had excellent salmon, though Shawn’s fish and chips were disappointing. On the drive back, we were stopped for an alcohol check, and I was relieved I hadn’t been drinking.

July 20. We returned to the kiosk and spent hours chatting with a local who ended up giving us quiche. Later, we visited an ethnographic museum island in Helsinki and met a friendly woman walking her dog. Afterward, we walked along the coast near an old cemetery and ended up at a hippy beach, where people were drumming, singing, and one guy flew into the air with jet boots attached to a jet ski. A beautiful sunset capped off the day.

July 21. We started the morning talking with Villi before heading to the Gallen-Kallela House Museum — fascinating. Then we drove to Porvoo, a charming wooden town that was very expensive. Ice cream was 6 euros, and a latte cost 4.50. We found a good Asian buffet and sushi place. The church in the town center was lovely. Our Airbnb hosts were Helena and Shino from Osaka. Helena, a reindeer biologist, had lived in Inari, Lapland for two years and had returned to teach special education in Helsinki.

July 22. I considered possible routes through Lapland and into Norway. Shawn headed to the airport while I went to a flea market near the center, then walked around and visited the botanical garden — very nice, with an old manor house used for botanical studies. I caught the ferry to the sea fortress, arriving around 5 p.m. and rushing through the museum until it closed at 6:30. It wasn’t great. I explored the island, admired the swimming bays, Piper Park, and the historic bastions. After returning around 8:30, I got some ice cream and took another walk to the same park we’d visited on the first day. I ended the night talking to my mom about expectations around sex and left for Nuuksio at 11:15. I shouted to a kangaroo (or so it felt) and endured loud planes overhead all night.