April 27, 2025, Japan. I really liked Matsushima and wish I had more than a day. I asked Shawn if he minded leaving mid-day for Hiraizumi, and he agreed. I went out early and walked along the ocean again, spending a few more hours exploring the beautiful island of Oshima. I got latte at Tully’s on the recommendation of Shawn, and tried an oyster rice dish from a food vendor. I had hoped to take the hour-long cruise around the bay, but the haze made for poor viewing, so I stayed onland. I had wanted to try Blue Bay Coffee, but it was closed. Still, I was happy with how much I got to see. Around 1 p.m., we took the train to Hiraizumi.

We arrived at the Hiraizumi train station around 2:45 and walked to our Airbnb, which turned out to be a kind of odd dormitory-style place. The check-in process was awkward and uncomfortable—the host was strict, and we had to sign multiple forms as he rattled off a long list of rules. The whole vibe was a bit tense.

The Historic Monuments and Sites of Hiraizumi, had been granted UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2011. I decided to head out to visit Motsuji temple, just across the large parking lot from our lodging. I especially loved the peaceful and beautifully maintained garden. After that, I continued wandering and ended up hiking into the hills, almost reaching the spectacular Chusonji temple. The area felt mystical and quiet—almost otherworldly. But then it started to get dark, and my phone glitched out and was unresponsive. I was worried I wouldn’t know be able to find my way back without Google Maps. Luckily my intuition and sense of orientation in the wilderness kicked in, and I made my way back in one piece. Thankfully, I figured out how to reboot the software and get the phone working again, which was a huge relief.

Meanwhile, Shawn had already gone off to find dinner. I was supposed to join him but couldn’t get in touch while my phone was down, so I gave up on trying to find him. When I eventually got back to the Airbnb, I found I really didn’t like the place. It was a strange spot, and really didn’t seem like a place to sleep, rather a commuter work place. The other guests were young and seemed more like long-term residents—I talked to one guy who was a post doc researcher.

April 28. I loved the path that I’d taken the way before and decided to head back up the path to Chusonji. On the way, I met a monk—or perhaps an abbot—who asked where I was from. I tried using Google Translate to say a few things in Japanese, and we ended up walking together for a bit. That brief interaction was surprisingly meaningful. He pointed out the main hall to me, and I followed the path. It was early morning, and there weren’t yet many people around. I took my time wandering through the grounds. The Golden Hall was lovely, though not as ornate as I expected—especially after having visited Nikko, which is far more elaborate. Still, it was a special experience.

Later, I ran into Shawn again. He’d spent the morning relaxing, doing laundry, and watching a soccer game. I jumped on a bus and ended up at the Hiraizumi Heritage Center, which turned out to be really interesting—lots of archaeological exhibits and historical context. I stayed until it closed at 5, then walked around the nearby excavation site.

That evening, we returned to the izakaya where Shawn had eaten the night before. There were seven people ahead of us, so it took the woman running the place an hour just to take our order. She was out of the fish set, so Shawn ordered eel for me, which was good but quite heavy and came without any vegetables.

After dinner, I asked Shawn if he minded if I wandered a bit, and I’m glad I did. I stumbled upon a beautiful Shinto art center that featured a massive hollowed-out cedar trunk. Nearby, I spotted an abandoned shrine on a hill. It looked inaccessible at first, but I pushed through some brambles to get up there. It clearly hadn’t been in use for a while, but it still held a certain reverence.

Eventually, I made my way back toward the river and then returned to the Airbnb when Shawn messaged that the food was ready. Unfortunately, the night was terrible—there was a family staying there with kids who ran up and down the halls, shouting late into the night. I couldn’t believe the parents let them do that, especially after Shawn politely asked them to be quiet. Total chaos.