August 20, 2023, Panama. I slept poorly, probably due to the two lattes—the second one at noon—and partly because I was anxious about getting up early to go to Cerro Punta with Brian. I wasn’t looking forward to waking up early. I took a long walk up to the top of Jaramillo. It was a rainy Sunday and the roads were quiet. I enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere, but it was a steep hike and I was wiped out by the end. I got back by 4:30 and thought I’d have the condo to myself—Richard had said he was going to the coffee farm for church at three—but he ended up staying home. I indulged in watching Pride and Prejudice. It was a rainy day, and I alternated between watching the movie and sitting on the terrace listening to the rain hit the roof of the hydroponic farm next door.

The infernal hammering continued. A worker and his family were living in the flat below Richard’s, remodeling everything by hand. Apparently, his wife is helping with the renovation. They’ve been at it for weeks now. Every day I woke up to hammering and fell asleep to it.

August 21. I got up, made oatmeal, walked to Hello Travel to pay for the Santa Catalina trip, and met up with Brian. He showed me his brewery in Alto Boquete. I was impressed by the complexity of the brewing technology—it’s not cheap. His client has already put $320,000 of his own money into the project. That number stunned me.

We headed up to Cerro Punta, stopping to check out a waterfall along the way. It was a beautiful, rainy day, and the Switzerland-like look of the mountains caught my eye. We passed Holstein cows and countless vegetable stands. For $6, you can get a 10+ pound bag of produce—lettuce, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, carrots, eggplant, squash. They call it “puerca,” or pig—a perfect haul for soup or grilled veggies with rice and chicken.

Eventually we made it to the mysterious Finca Dracula. I figured it might be closed—it was Monday—but we found a side gate and walked in. Outside: small homes and steep hillsides. Inside: another world entirely.

What was once cow pasture in the 1970s was transformed by the current owner’s father into a sanctuary. He collected orchids from around the world and planted trees, ground cover, bushes, and flowering plants. There’s even a waterfall and reflecting pool that looks like something out of a Japanese garden. A trail winds up the hillside, and I had hoped to climb it, but it was too rainy and Brian was impatient.

I had a fascinating conversation with Andrés, the owner, who often accompanies biologists to nearby Cerro Punta to find the “crystal frog”—named for its translucent skin. Researchers are trying to figure out why it’s surviving the fungal epidemic that wiped out the golden frog. Andrés is frustrated with ecologists who complain without offering solutions and wishes more biologists would come study Panama’s incredible biodiversity. He pointed out that Panama actually has more protected land than Costa Rica, though it lacks the same level of government support or enforcement.

The orchid tour was magical. I learned Dracula orchids are light-sensitive and face downward during the day, then lift toward the sky at night—hence the name. There was even one with a monkey’s face. I loved walking through the garden and learning the Spanish names for the plants—even if I won’t remember them.

I also fell in love with their cheesecake. I had two pieces, plus a delicious Hungarian-style tea cake. Andrés is Jewish and I suspect those recipes come from Eastern Europe. I didn’t want to leave, but Brian was ready to go.

On the way back to Boquete, we passed Hotel Bambito. María had recommended the restaurant, but it’s now government-run and underwhelming. I ordered trout a la Bambito with mushrooms and gravy—meh. The trout came from the nearby rainbow trout farm. The setting was nice, though, and we drove back through steady rain. Brian had been drinking cocktails all day and got a little too forward. I did my best to maintain boundaries and went home. It stirred up some old trauma.

August 22. Tuesday was Gringo Market day. No way I was missing French pastries. I headed down to Tap Out and chatted with the French owner of Amandine. I bought three pastries, some hummus, banana bread, and passionfruit bread. I also saw Yari, who lives above the eco park with her partner Natalie. She had just returned from Guatemala and gave me some great travel tips. I also ran into Eduardo, the Venezuelan artist—he now shares a gallery in Los Naranjos. It felt like a mini reunion.

I rushed back for a couples counseling session and was grateful to talk about the trauma from the night before. It helped.

It rained all day, so I indulged in Pride and Prejudice again. Watching something in English made me feel a little more at home. I went for a 90-minute walk and got my shoes completely soaked. They’re Gore-Tex, but the tongues aren’t, so now they’re moldy. I ordered gaiters, bug bite lotion, and natural repellent on Amazon. I’ll wait to head to Costa Rica until those arrive. I’ve been lucky to be able to use Richard’s Florida address for deliveries. I also started taking some herbal lung supplements I ordered while in Panama City—they seem to be helping more than the awful tea I’d been drinking.

August 23. Another bad night of sleep. At 10 a.m. I went to Buckle Tip Café for a latte, then met Brian and his friend Tim at the Boquete Sandwich Shop—a total gringo joint. Tim lives in The Springs above Boquete, on the ground floor of a friend’s house. When they’re away, he takes care of their plants and pets. He and Brian discussed the brewery business—Tim helps CEOs improve their companies, and Brian needs investors.

After breakfast, Brian and I drove up to Bajo Mono and Alto Quiel. Even though it was rainy and foggy, I loved seeing the dripping trees. Brian used to live in Alto Quiel and took me to a lovely coffee estate. I had a hot chocolate and brownie while sitting on the porch under the eaves. I took a short walk up one of the trails and wished I could’ve stayed longer. I also wanted to do the Pipeline Trail, but hikers told me it closed at 3 p.m., so I’ll have to come back.

Back in Boquete, I visited María at the artisanal market. Her mother has edema and artery blockage but can’t afford surgery. I recommended some supplements and Amazon as a cheaper option. Then I confirmed my Santa Catalina shuttle reservation.