September 1 – 5, 2024. Mexico. I arrived in the UNESCO world heritage site historic center of Morelia on a week night and was surprised at the crush of people on every possible sidewalk and square. I was in search of an Airbnb tucked away in an old apartment a few blocks from downtown. I barely made it around the corner, the streets were so narrow. Gingerly, I parked my car in a spot (and left it for 4 days), and headed down a long hallway full of the scent of days old cooking and barking dogs. The apartment was tiny with no windows. But, I reminded myself, location location location! I was minutes from historic squares, cultural gems, charming neighborhoods, and cobblestone streets. My kind of place. And a surprising lack of tourists.

After unloading, I headed out to explore. I followed the crowds and ended up at the stunning cathedral, Catedral de Morelia, whose beauty earns it the reputation as an emblem of the city. It is enormous, and I loved looking at the exterior from different angles, appreciating the lighting at night. I returned the next day to appreciate how to sun played over its pink cantera stone.

I fell in love with another cultural icon, Museo Michoacano de las Artesanías, in Plaza Valladolid. The immensity of the stone structure housing is astounding. It is part museum and part store, and presents handicrafts by region according to their material construction. There are rooms dedicated to pottery, straw crafts, copper inlay, wood carvings, paper mache, and more. Between the building’s architecture and the artisanal crafts housed there, I was in heaven.

I spent time my days wandering through old neighborhoods, visiting historic sites within walking distance. My favorites were el Callejon del Romance, el Mercado de Dulces y Artesanias, la Fuente de Las Tarascas, and el Acueducto de Morelia. The remaining portion of the aqueduct is one mile long and has 253 towers. I particularly loved Plaza de Armas and Jardin de las Rosas, both great spots to people watch. Hanging out in public is very popular in Mexico. It’s one of the reasons I love traveling to any country south of the US border.

I explored a number of museums as well. I particularly liked Museo Regional Michoacano for a good overview of the history of the region. I also enjoyed Museo de Arte Colonial for its collection of paintings and sculptures, and Museo Casa Natal de Morelos to know more about the man for whom Morelia was named. On the second night, I decided to take the 2 mile trek, hoping it was worth it. Il Piacere del Gelato had the goods, and I was willing. It became my nocturnal haunt.

September 5 – 8, Jilotepec. I left Morelia with a sad heart, hoping to return someday. In only a few days I had fallen in love with the vibrant and stunning city. Just outside the city, I spied the turnoff for Ocampo and El Rosario, the largest and most accessible Monarch butterfly breeding sanctuary in Mexico. I had hoped to explore the site, but remembered that the butterflies wouldn’t arrive for 2 more months, and it was a several hour detour. A little while later, I spied the white truck of the Federales, loaded with soldiers and headed into Michoacan. I shuddered, remembering the multiple times I was stopped in Sonora and Sinaloa on my way down the west coast of Mexico.

I was on a mission. The two reasons for my trip were: to meet Karina and visit my friend Edyth whom I hadn’t seen for 10 years. Karina was the daughter of my dear friend Ruben, who died a few years ago. He was visiting her at the time of his death, and I had the honor of speaking to him just before he passed. I hoped to get closer to her and her family.

We had planned to rendezvous in Jilotepec, since they lived in a small village where houses were far apart and streets not clearly named. I called her from a bakery, thanks to my proclivity for sweets and baked goods. About 20 minutes later, a car approached, and a man, woman, and child emerged: Oskar, Kari, and Cohan. We embraced and they took me back to their house, which they have built from the ground up. They live in one of the highest regions of Mexico, at 8000 feet. Their property is part of Oskar’s childhood home. We had a delicious dinner of refried beans, rice, homemade tortillas, delicious hot sauce, and grilled veggies. Cohan showed me his drawings of Sonic, the Hedgehog, with whom he was enamored. Before I left, he gifted me with one of his drawings. They were so kind, telling me that I was family and insisting that I use their bedroom. I was reminded of my time in El Valle del Anton, Panama when I stayed with a new friend whose parents had welcomed me and done the same. Such grace as this, we barbarians in the north will never know.

The next day we paid a visit to the house next door where he grew up and his mother still resides. On the way there, he pointed out native plants and trees, as well as the barn where they had processed corn and fed their cattle and sheep. His mother was very warm, and I was struck by the large ranch style house surrounding a courtyard and barn. She gave me a tour of the house, and seems happy to see her grandson. Later that day, I accompanied Kari to pick up her son from school. It was cute to see all the kids gathering in the school yard, and then racing out to find their respective parents. We took a walk out to a lake across the road from their house, and then to a nearby reservoir.

They have big dreams. Oskar told me about their 5 year plan to build a barn, add on to the house, finish several rooms, landscape, and pave the driveway while both parents work full time, he installing electrical equipment, and Kari as a nurse. Cohan was full of energy and implored me to keep up with him as he ran around the house and yard pointing out everything he loved: pet chickens, toys, a fort, and Sonic, among other things. We played ball in the front driveway, explored the chicken coop and wild lands uphill from the house, and generally kept busy for hours. I was struck by how lovingly Oskar and Kari cared for Cohan, giving him praise while making boundaries and helping channel his endless energy into productive and fun projects.

Even while I was visiting, they were very busy. We managed to squeeze in a visit to the cemetery where Ruben was buried. The church was poised on a hill, reminding me of a stone chapel I’d seen near Bielsko Bialy in the Tatry mountains of Poland. I was very sad to see Kari’s dad (and my friend Ruben)’s gravestone. Standing in front of his burial plot, there was no denying that he was no longer here. They gave me time to be alone. I cried, remembering Ruben’s love of Elvis Presley and juke joints, dance parties and rock and roll, while Cohan played in the woods with their parents nearby. When I was done, I rejoined them and we had a quiet trip back home. Kari made a delicious corn soup, while Oskar and Cohan and I hung out behind the house.

I loved my time with them and was sorry to leave. But Kari had to work the next day, my birthday, so I decided to push on to Chingnahuapan where I would visit Edyth and her family. It had been 10 years.