September 17 – 21 2024, Mexico. I had a relaxing few days in Tlaxcala. My AirBnb, the most comfortable and spacious I’ve yet stayed in, was centrally located a few blocks from the Zocalo and Plaza de la Constitución. I’d only planned to stay 2 nights, but quickly revised my plans to stay 2 more. Other than the family dog who lunged at me when I left, barked incessantly, and lay on the doormat to keep me from leaving, it was paradisiacal. As usual, after dumping my things, I set out to explore the town.

The first spot I visited was the Ex Convento on the hill overlooking Plaza Xicohténcatl and the historic center. I walked through several plazas, then ascended the stairs leading up to the Ex-Convent of San Francisco, built in 1537, one of the first four Franciscan monasteries in the Americas. It felt like a step back in time. 500 years or so. The Mudéjar-style wooden ceiling, large atrium, and 16th-century tower are relics from that past. In 1861 it lost its status as a convent, instead serving as a jail and barracks. Not much different than how it was used when a religious institution. I wandered around the grounds, trying to discern the hand of the indigenous people (Tequitqui) in the artistic details.

I had been aware of and wondering about the syncretism of Spanish and indigenous aesthetics in the architecture of many of the convents and monasteries I’d seen on this trip to Mexico, as well as other parts of the Americas. In many places where the Spanish had conquered through betrayal and deceit, after the bloody armed struggle, they united in peace to link their criteria and knowledge in a single architectural product. However, here it was different, as Piltecutli and Acxotécatl, caciques of Tlaxcala of Atlihuetzía, were allies of Cortés. The convent was drawn up by Cortés in 1523 and represents an important part in the history of the conquest since it was there where the first image of the virgin known as “the conqueror” was handed over for her veneration. The goddess perverted into an avenging conqueror.

I enjoyed Plaza Xicohténcatl and Plaza de la Constitucion, the largest plazas in the city. The Palacio de Gobierno del Estado borders one side of Xicohténcatl, hosts a 5,000 square ft mural by Xochitiotzin. Considered the last great work of the Mexican muralist movement, these 24 segments illustrate the history of the Tlaxcalan people, including the arrival of the Spanish and the role of local heroes.

On one of the days I took a long walk along the river, and was amazed to discover Ribereña Park, a beautiful riverside park with lovely plantings dedicated to climate change issues. I greatly appreciate Tlaxcala for its culture and enlightened environmental view, and wondered whether this was due to the university. Another day I climbed the hill to Basilica of Our Lady of Ocotlan, which had been a sacred spring before the Spanish arrival.

Another day I walked along Benito Juarez toward Tizatlán Botanical Garden. The architecture on the 4 or 5 blocks of historic downtown was stunning. I poked my head into a particularly stunning stone building, Teatro Xicohténcatl. It was equally beautiful within, and featured the writing of a famous Mexican poet. A few blocks further, an immense palace, Palacio de Cultura, stands alone on beautiful grounds. I explored the gardens and building, amazed that it was open to the public. It was stunning. I lingered and rested against a column outside, watching the people as they walked about.

On to the botanical garden. It was a good 2 miles further, and even though I walk fast, took a bit to get there. The sky looked foreboding. And of course I had no umbrella or jacket. I had just reached the garden and walked a few paths when the sky opened and hard rain followed by pebble size hail started lashing down. I took refuge under a giant arbor where a couple had secured a spot. We stood and watched as water cascaded all around, and hail crashed at our feet. I loved the dramatic energy of the storm, and took a video of the water sheeting down. As most thunderstorms, it was over in 15 minutes, and I picked my way through puddles and crunched on ice. It was a lovely spot, and wandered through, enjoying the changing habitats.

I started heading back at top speed, trying to warm up. I only had a thin sweater and it wasn’t keeping out the cold. I was also hungry, which didn’t help. I decided to stop at the Feria de Tlaxcala, an indoor building like that of the country fairgrounds, lined with all manner of delicious local culinary delights, all freshly prepared. I chose a spot with fresh soup, and had a lovely chat with the cook and her husband. I told him how I wanted to visit my friend in Chingnahuapan more often, and wasn’t particularly keen on driving. He suggested I fly into the nearby airport, and offered to pick me up. His open-hearted kindness and warmth are what made me fall in love with the Mexican people.