December 2 – 4, 2024, Japan. We were sad to leave Kyoto, but still had 10 days left of the trip. We said goodbye to our Airbnb hosts, who let us peek in at the kitties in the Maneki Machiya Cat Cafe. It was more of a kennel, from my view, and there was no coffee nor customers. The host had been reticent to let us see them. We weren’t sure why. During our 5 minute visit, one cat seemed particularly bothered, and ended up throwing up on the cage below. Fun to clean up. I didn’t like that they were all in cages. I’d throw up too if I was trapped like that.

We had one last decadent breakfast (more like latte and pastries) at Tentacion d’Ange, then headed to the JR station. This would be an easy commute, much shorter than our usual day long shleps catching a number of buses and trains. We arrived in the main station at Nara and consulted online maps. Our Airbnb was a short 5 minute walk from the station, in the upstairs of a small business complex. I was surprised to see how lovely, spacious, and ultra modern it was. With a full kitchen to boot! We dropped our bags, and I headed off to investigate Nara Park and the temples. Nara was Japan’s first permanent capital in 710, and has significant temples and artwork dating to that time. And don’t forget the deer, which roam wild (yet are fed crackers) all over park. Deer are considered messengers of the gods. Tōdai-ji temple’s Great Buddha Hall, the largest wooden hall in Japan, houses Daibutsu, a15m-high bronze Buddha. On the park’s east side is the Shinto shrine Kasuga Taisha, which dates to 768.

There was a lot to see. And given that we only had one full day, I had to take advantage of our afternoon arrival. On my walk toward the temples, I saw Japanese tourists taking selfies with deer. One woman placed a deer stuffie on the head of an unsuspecting deer and posed. I wondered when these deer might have enough self respect to show these people who’s boss. I smiled at signs saying “No teasing with crackers”, a reference to requiring to the Park-sanctioned deer food. I guess people were luring them with the crackers to take photos. Wondered if that could be considered click bait.

I continued climbing toward Mt. Mikasa, as I wanted to get away from the crazy tourists and deranged deer. I like exploring, and often don’t know where I’m headed. I guess that’s the definition of the word. The end of my wandering found me on a path into the Kasuga Taisha Shrine complex. In the short time it had taken to walk there, I felt like the place had been transformed. From a Disneyland-like ambience, I was suddenly in a very remote and other-worldly place. A few locals road bikes along the path, and I assumed their homes were on the other side of the forest. There were many sacred spots along the path, with signs delineating sacred boulders and springs. It felt like a magical fairy land. Eventually, I came to a vermilion-lacquered cloisters, the prominent Nanmon (South Gate). I entered, and soon could see the Honden, or main sanctuary. In front was a small, dry-stone garden with an old and apparently sacred apple tree called Ringo-no-Niwa (Apple Yard). The sanctuary was closing, so I gazed from the outside, straining my eyes to see as much detail as I could. The inner garden was dominated by a giant cedar, while a corridor around the inner garden was hung with hundreds of lanterns.

On my walk along the path, I came to Wakamiya Shrine, dedicated to the deity of music and performing arts. I learned there were 62 smaller auxiliary shrines surrounding the main complex, including Tsubakimoto Jinja. The stone lanterns leading to the Honden looked like ancient moss-covered sentinels. I learned that there are over 3,000 stone lanterns on the grounds. The Heiden (Offering Hall) and Naoraiden (Entertainment Hall) were side by side and sported vermillion lacquer architecture and hanging bronze lanterns. Naoraiden had a 1000 yr old cedar growing through the roof. It was a historic hall used for elite ceremonies and Buddhist sutra lectures. On display was a beautiful silk brocade folding screen depicting the Naorai ceremony for imperial representatives during the Kasuga Festival.

When I could no longer see, I turned back. Good thing too, because I spotted a security guard walking with a flashlight to ensure no one was there after dark. On my walk back, I was spellbound by the way the lights of Ukimido Pavillion reflected on Ara Pond. Curious, I walked around the pond and walked into the neighborhood on the other side. The narrow streets were lined with traditional wood homes, and at the end of the street, Daijyo-in Temple Garden, complete with a vermillion wood bridge over a reflecting pond. This was one of the my favorite things about Japan. It seemed that a short walk from any urban place, you could find a garden or nature spot. It was like teleporting.

Shawn had decided to cook dinner in the apartment. It was nice to eat at home, and we were impressed by the fully functioning kitchen and utensils. Despite the delicious food we’d been eating out, it was a nice change to eat at home. I had already planned where I would get a latte in the morning, and was excited to try CHAMI – Specialty Coffee Roaster. The roaster was in the main gallery for all to see. I really liked the layout of the place. But that wasn’t all. Not only was the latte great, but they served in-house produced baked goods and desserts. The day I was there, they had croissants, cinnamon rolls, tarts, scones, Basque cheesecake, rich chocolate cake, custard pudding, seasonal cakes, raspberry macaroon, Kabocha (Japanese pumpkin) tart, cherry pie, and vegan options such as strawberry shortbread. And to top that off, their desserts are designed to pair with their specialty coffee, including lattes, hojicha lattes, and pour-overs. I couldn’t help myself, and went back for a second. They were just too good.

It was hard to leave the cafe, but I had a lot to see. I walked a short distance to Kofukuji Temple National Treasure Museum, which apparently had the greatest Buddhist carvings in Nara. Ashura, one of the eight guardian deity figures commissioned by Empress Komyo 1,000 years ago, became a huge hit in Japan and even has its own fan club. When Ashura and the other treasures were shown in Tokyo and Fukuoka, over 1.65 million people came to see them. The collection included lifelike figures of Kongorikishi guardians and Tentouki and Ryutouki lantern carriers by master carver Unkei and his sons. It was very impressive, and like everything else I’d seen, deserved days of time rather than minutes.

Next I visited the Nara National Museum. The Buddhist Sculpture Hall, which is the original museum building, housed in a historic 1894 French Renaissance-style brick building. The building looked like it belongs in Paris. In the hall, I saw nearly 100 Buddhist sculptures, many of which are National Treasures. Next I checked out the Ritual Bronzes Gallery and Sakamoto Collection of Ancient Chinese Bronzes. There were lots of other spaces: workshops, the garden, library, and museum shop. It is a large and impressive complex, and if I’d been afforded more time, I would have kicked back and relaxed.

I stepped outside the back of the building, struck by the river-like water feature that butted up against the building, and the lovely gardens beyond. Again, a place I would love to spend more time. But I needed to see Tōdai-ji, and wasn’t sure how long the queue to get into the Great Hall would be. I felt dwarfed under the main gate, Nandaimon (Great South) Gate and learned that the original, erected during the Nara period, was destroyed by a typhoon during the Heian period. The present structure was built in 1203 using Daibutsu style based upon Sung Chinese models introduced by Chōgen, the monk responsible for restoring Tōdai-ji. It is the largest temple entrance gate in Japan.

It was a beautiful day, and people streamed past me. Some were eating their picnic on the temple grounds, while others bothered deer. I got in the long line to see Daibatsu or Vairocana, the great Buddha. Tōdai-ji was one of the Seven Great Temples, and began as Kinshō-ji, founded in 728 for the repose of the spirit of Crown Prince Moto. In 741, when the Emperor issued ordered construction of a national system of monasteries, Kinshō-ji was elevated and became Kinkōmyō-ji. In 743, Emperor Shōmu issued his proclamation for the erection of a Great Buddha Image. Because Tōdai-ji was the chief temple in the Kokubun-ji system, it was a center for rituals for the peace of the nation and the prosperity of the people; it also functioned, however, as a center for the training of scholar monks who studied Buddhist doctrine.

I finally got my turn to gaze at the Great Buddha of Nara. It is a colossal 50 ft bronze statue, completed in 752 as a symbol of national unity and peace. The Great Buddha Hall is the largest wooden structure in the world, and I gaped at its immense proportions.  I tried to imagine what this great piece of art had seen and how artisans had created such a giant bronze. After admiring the behemoth Buddha, I headed out to the ruins of Ruins of Todaiji East Pagoda Precinct Park. From there I walked up to Nigatsu-do Hall, famous for its large balcony, offering panoramic views of Nara and the nightly water-drawing ceremony (Omizutori). At dusk they light the wooden balconies and pathways with an extensive collection of lanterns. Unfortunately I was early, and would have to come back to witness the nocturnal glow of the place. I was told it was lit up and open all night.

Just to give some perspective of the scale of the complex, I’ve listed the structures below:

• Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall): The main hall, known as one of the world’s largest wooden buildings, which houses the colossal bronze Great Buddha statue.
• Nandaimon (Great South Gate): The main entrance gate, rebuilt in 1195, featuring two 8-meter-high Nio guardian statues.
• Chumon (Middle Gate): The gate immediately in front of the Daibutsuden.
• Kairo (Cloisters): The covered walkways surrounding the Daibutsuden and Chumon.
• Shoro (Belfry): A designated National Treasure building that houses a massive 8th-century bell, the second largest in Japan.
• Kaidan-in (Ordination Hall): Located west of the main hall, it contains famous clay statues of the Four Heavenly Guardians (Shitennō).
• Shunjo-do Hall: A hall dedicated to the monk Shunjo-bo Chogen, who led the reconstruction of the temple.
• Kaisan-do (Founder’s Hall): Located in the northeast corner of the main precinct, it houses a statue of the temple’s founder, Roben.

Structures on hill in East Precinct:

• Hokke-do (Sangatsu-do / Third Month Hall): Known as the oldest building in the complex, dating back to 733 (Nara Period).
• Nigatsu-do Hall (Second Month Hall): Located up on the hillside, this hall is famous for its large balcony, offering panoramic views of Nara and the nightly water-drawing ceremony (Omizutori).
• Sammai-do (Shigatsu-do / Fourth Month Hall): A hall located adjacent to the Hokke-do.

Other structures:

• Shosoin Storehouse: Located behind the main hall, this elevated wooden building (azekura-zukuri style) was used to store treasures of Emperor Shomu and artifacts from the Tenpyō period.
• Tegai-mon Gate: An original 8th-century gate located in the northern part of the complex.
• Todaiji Museum: Situated near the Nandaimon gate, it displays a collection of important Buddhist art and statues.
• Original Pagoda Sites: While the original 100-meter-tall East and West Pagodas were destroyed by earthquakes, a sōrin finial, replicated for the 1970 Osaka Expo, marks the site where one of them stood.

I had hoped to see the interior of the Honden or main hall at Kasuga Taisha Shrine, and hurried over. I paid my fee, and walked under the Chumon Gate (Middle Gate), a 40 ft, two-story vermilion gate built in 1613. I love trees of all kinds, but especially old giants, and was grateful to see an 80 ft tall, 29 ft in circumference cedar. 1000 years old! The forest surrounding the shrine has been protected from logging and hunting since 841, maintaining an ancient, untouched ecosystem.

I turned my attention to the main hall, actually a row of four shrine buildings, each dedicated to a different protector diety of the Fujiwara family. The main hall is rarely opened to the public, but I enjoyed the exterior, a premier example of the Kasuga-zukuri architectural style, characterized by a small, vermillion, one-bay structure with a curved cypress bark roof. It was founded in 768 AD, its four main halls are sacred, rarely open to the public, and painted in a unique, vibrant vermillion. 

On my way out of the shrine complex, I passed the Kasuga Taisha Museum (Kokuho-den). I was sorry I didn’t have enough time, as I read that it houses 350 National Treasures and thousands of cultural properties, including armor, swords, and masks. I headed back to our apartment. Shawn cooked another nice meal, and we chatted about our day. I told him about the shrine and suggested he visit. He decided to see it early the next morning before our train to Koya. I took a bit of a night hike in our neighborhood, and was happy that after a few blocks I encountered traditional residences and narrow streets. It looked like the city had only redeveloped the hub of the city, and left the outskirts alone. I was relieved, as I don’t like the destruction of historical buildings no matter what shape they are in.

Next day we packed up early and left our bags in the hall just outside our apartment. I walked in the morning light, making my way back to the shrine complex I’d visited yesterday, then headed downhill to CHAMI for an excellent latte and pastry. I was prepared for our journey to Koya.